Editor's Choice: Casas Particulares

In certain towns only (most notably not in Varadero, but certainly in Havana, Pinar del Rio, Trinidad and Santiago de Cuba), Cubans are allowed to rent out rooms to visitors. Literally ‘private house', the casa particular is broadly comparable to bed & breakfast. However, in Cuba, where many of the hotels are sterile affairs offering little opportunity to interact with locals, the casa is a good bet. Rooms are often offered in beautifully-kept homes, complete with private bathroom and breakfast. Evening meals are often on offer as well, which can be more varied and plentiful than in state-run restaurants. It all adds up to a cheaper choice and a great way to get a glimpse of the ‘real Cuba'. Legal casas particulares are recognised by a blue triangle on a white background on the front door. A number of websites have sprung up to help travellers find a casa in advance, such as www.casaparticularcuba.org and www.cubaparticular.com. Once in Cuba, it just as easy, or easier, to move from one to another by recommendation, whether in other parts of the same city, or anywhere else in Cuba.

From staid and decaying state-owned giants to exciting new partnerships with French and Spanish hotel groups, there is enormous variation in quality and style, particularly in Havana. It pays to do some advance research, even if booking a package. The various government operators specialise in different sectors of the market. Habaguanex (website: www.habaguanex.com) tends to deal with historic or boutique hotels for the luxury market (an increasing trend in Cuba and particularly Havana). Cubanacan (website: www.cubanacan.cu) operates a number of mid-range city and beach hotels under different labels, and has signed a deal with the Orient Express Group to build new luxury hotels. Sol Melia (website: www.solmelia.com) concentrates on big luxury hotels, with an emphasis on beach resorts. Many hotels are advertised as luxury hotels, boasting four or five stars, but in general, these will not live up to western expectations of comfort, service and gastronomy.